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The Lady's Magazine, or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex, Appropriated solely to their Use and Amusement, 1801
Volume XXXII for the Year 1801London: G. G and J. Robinson, No. 25, Pater-noster Row.
(With an Engraving elegantly coloured.)
[Text is on page 377-8.]
IN full-dress our élégantes continue to dress their heads simply in hair, and to wear diadems. The capotes have almost all a large bunch of ribbons, or crape, in front, which are white, jonquil, lilac, and rose. The yellow and white straw hats are very common. One of the most striking head-dresses in the hat à la Uhlan, [sic ?Hulan?] the crown of which is in the form of a lozenge, and the front a little turned up or pointed like a helmet: its colour is jonquil, rose, or all white, with feathers of the same; or striped with broad stripes, lilac and yellow, or lilac and rose, with flat feathers to match. This head-dress, piquante by its novelty, displays much ingenuity in its plan and execution.
Besides jais, pearls, and flowers, fruit, particularly olives, are used in the trimming of robes. Frequently we see an echelle of ribbons or flowers descending from the cestus down to the bottom of the robe. Sometimes this ornament is only two large flowers, attached one to the cestus, the other to bottom of the robe, following the direction of a third flower placed upon the diadem.
The prevailing colour for hats and capotes of Florence, or crape, is deep violet, with jonquil ribbons or draperies, and Egyptian earth-brown, with lilac ribbons or draperies. The ribbons are only striped one way, that is breadthways.--They wear the fichu chemises trimmed, and without a cape for the neck. The cloaks are mostly trimmed with lace. Oblong mobs, in imitation of the antique head-dress, and square cornettes, are still the fashion for morning. The cestuses cross upon the back, and are knotted before. The number of robes with low waists increases. In a few months we shall probably come to the point from which we set out. Muslins, with large flowers, white upon white, are very much used for fichus and robes. Among the fancy bonnets, we observe the small boat shape, a white crown, in organdis, with a drapery of crape of Egypian earth-brown, or apple-green; and capotes of white crape, parsemées, with blue- bottle flower applique. --The necklaces, still very long, are now composed of two tubes of elastic meshes, joined at equal intervals by ribbons of elastic gold web. The newest ear-rings are of amber, generally square, or of an octagon shape. The watches are worn in a round ball isolated, or in the centre of a square medallion.
The fashionables imitate the oblong head-dresses of the antique shape, closed with silver chess. --The capotes are composed of two colours; a soot crown, and green draperies; a green crown, jonquil draperies; and a lilac crown, and draperies of Egyptian earth. Crape parsemé, with applications of satin peas. The long waists augment in number, and yet there is reason to doubt whether the fashion will become general. After having paid tribute to them, a great many élégantes resume the short-waisted robes; and some, though they ordered long-waisted dresses, had not courage to wear them. The long shawls are those now in fashion, of muslin, of Turkish crimson, and Turkish blue; also square Scotch shawls, of silk and cotton, [from page 378] with large flowers upon a brown St. Theresa mantle ground. Spencers, trimmed with lace, are worn for half-dress. The muslins are either figured with white flowers or large diamonds. Serpent bracelets, in imitation of the necklaces and ear-ring, are also in repute.
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