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The Lady's Magazine, or Entertaining Companion for theFair Sex, Appropriated solely to their Use and Amusement,1799
Volume XXX for the Year 1799London: G. G. and J: Robinson, No. 25, Pater-noster Row.
HER majesty, as is usual on her own birth-day, was plainly attiredin a white crape petticoat, ornamented with perpendicular stripes of yellowribbon, edged with black lace, and a black lace flounce; the pocket-holesornamented with yellow cord tassels. Her majesty's body and train was ayellow and white satin stripe, trimmed with black lace.
GOWN pink muslin, plain sleeves, roses on the shoulders, a single plaitround the neck, coming to a point in front; full muslin braces on the breast,fastened with a rosette, and girdle of the same round the wiast, fastenedwith the same.
Grecian dress. Round gown white muslin, drawn down and fastened onthe breasts and arms with yellow roses. The outer robe yellow muslin,fastened on the shoulders with yellow roses; drawn up to the waist on theright side, and fastened round the waist with a yellow girdle, having aborder of purple flowers embroidered on it. Head-dress, à laSappho, with fillets of lilac and yellow. Lilac shoes, and small goldchain necklace.
At no time, for these five years past, have we had so gay, or so full aseason in the metropolis, as the present. Fashion has not onlyresumed all its splendor, but it has, from the interval of rest and economy,acquired new taste for the capricious and expensive. Fancy is nowracked for novelties of decoration, and dress is daily flying fromGreek simplicity into Eastern magnificence. Theembroidery of muslins has given a richness to the female robe which istruly captivating; and, what with the glittering effect of gold and silver, ofhigh plumes, and of diamonds, the ball-room now presents a blaze ofornamented beauty, from which the sober and chasteelegance of last winter must shrink in dismay. No woman, trulyloyal to the divinity of fashion, can possibly appearnow without feathers and flowers; and though the gentlemen have not yetbeen brought to the stiff collar, the sword, and the embroidered suit,yet it is somewhat towards the renovation of becoming grandeur, inoppostion to the republican Marseilles waistcoat, and the treasonable crop,that the cocked hat has enlarged its dimensions, and sports its gold tassel,button and loop.
The Hive Hat.
THE crown is of satin, and also the shape or shade which comes overthe face; this last is very narrow, and slopes off at the left side, so as toform an obtuse angle at the extremity. Bands of crape across the crown, butone generally of a different colour from it. Silk loop, after twisting roundthe transverse drapery, runs in a double row along the edge of the shape,and at lenth falls down on the left side, ornmented with two tassels at theends.
1. Le Brun's hat, made of cane, and lined with blue, turned up beforeand behind; wild rose, or other wild flower, in front. Blue muslin rounddress.
2. Bonnet of pink crape ribband laid on round the front, beyond oroutside of which is a piece of projecting crape to shade the face. Short robe,and petticoat of white muslin, plaited or tucked all round; frock sleeves.
HER majesty was magnificently arrayed in a white crape petticoat,embroidered with real silver spangles, in imitation of forked lightening,across the coat, over each corner of which flowed blue crape draperies,richly spangled with real silver, and drawn up in festoons with fourdiamond chain bands, and four brilliant roses, at equal distances on eachband, terminated with large brilliant rosettes and tassels of immense value.The bands were edged with blue laurel, which gave a fine contrast andadditional lustre to the diamonds; blue laurel and diamond bands also ranfrom the top to the bottom of both draperies, and which were additionallyornamented with blue laurel, fastened with four brilliant stars.
1. Blue muslin gown, plain, or richly spangled with silver; silvertrimmings all round, with silver tassels: turban of blue, ornamented withthree jewellery flowers, silver band and tassel, and three white ostrichfeathers.
2. Cap of white rose leaves, ornamented with a red rose; white muslinround dress, with lilac corset, crossed behind, and tied before.
Round beaver close cap, and feather in front, with gold chain bandround the crown. Gold band of muslin cravat round the neck. Blue, green,or corbeau jacket and petticoat, with black velvet collar, and double rowsof Nelson's-ball gilt buttons; fine tan leather gloves; half boots of blackSpanish or Morocco leather: a small quantity of hair appearing round thecap.
Of fancy bonnets, that of pipe straw, with sliding double front; anothermade of willow, in all colours; the porcupine straw; the gimp and straw,with double rims; and the open chip; are the newest and most favourite.Small wreaths are preferred in flowers: lilac, brown, and blue, are theprevailing colours.
THIS chapeau is a modification of one we formerly noticed. The roseis more in favour than ever, and thus our beauties of pale complexion jointhe roses and lilies in spite of nature. At first, they used only satins andFlorence: organdis by its whiteness and fineness affords a finer contrastwith the rose, which it shades off to great advantage. White loop is becomealmost in general use.
Some of these have appeared at the Thuilleries. Some are green, othersviolet, or rose-coloured. They are generally, however, white, and dailyincreasing in depth and breadth.
Six London Head-dresses.
1. TURBAN of yellow crape; the crown full, and brought to one sidewith an end finished by a [from page 360] tassel of silk or pearls. The frontformed into a sort of bandeau by narrow white satin ribband. Yellowostrich feather in front.
2. Bonnet of white chip, or crape, trimmed with wreath of flowers, andtied under the chin with a white silk handkerchief.. A small cap of whitecrape, with a full lace border worn under the bonnet.
3.A Turkish turban of white and yellow crape, on which is affixed onone side a small white chip hat. --The hat is ornamented round the crownwith yellow and white twisted crape, the same as the turban. The bandwhich confines the hat to the turban is also of lightly twisted white andyellow crape. A yellow ostrich feather is worn on one side.
4. A cap of crape, ornamented with wreaths of flowers, and silver orwhite silk tassel.
5. The Suwarrow bonnet, made of dyed willow, with a sprig or flowerof the same. These are worn in various colours, but chiefly of brown, slate,yellow, or lilac.
6. A round cap of white crape, ornamented with pearls or white beads,with a tassel of the same at the top of the crown. White ostrich feather.
Riding Coat à la Paphos
This is without sleeves, and the slope is in the Greek fashion: it is worn over a white dress. Itmakes a very long skirt behind. The waist is plaited into fold, the front adorned in the same manner.It is of a very grand design, says citizeness Lissrand
The above image is the illustration to go with "The Admonition; aTale" on page 440.
[from page 460] IT was the observation of a very great person, thatevery man may be known by his dress. Every age has had its peculiaritiesand eccentricities, in the progress to these glaring distinctions which dividethe manners, habits, and customs, of distant epochs. Fashions perform theirevolutions, and return like comets at stated times, though none of ourlearned beaux may be able to calculate their return.
The long-toed shoe, which now figures in Bond-street, wasregulated by an act of parliament so long ago [from page 461] as the reignof Edward the Third ...
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