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The Lady's Magazine, or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex, Appropriated solely to their Use and Amusement, 1800
Volume XXXI for the Year 1800London: G. G. and J. Robinson, No. 25, Pater-noster Row.
This issue contains an article by Miss Hannah More "On Fashionable Dissipation" on pages 548- 51.
(With an Engraving, elegantly coloured.)
Straw Hat trimmed with Crape.
TO give a softened tinge to the yellow straw hats, many fashionables wear it trimmed with a transparent crape of a green, violet, or rose colour. Paysannes are still worn without any alteration in the shape. White satin hats, with buckles, are much in fashion. Jonquils and roses are still worn in the capotes (or cap-bonnets). The head-dress after the antique, which is remarkable for a quantity of hair covering the forehead and the eyes, is much in vogue. Some of our belles have resumed powder.
The prevailing colour of the day is rose. The head-dress, in hair, has a decided preference, but it is not the only one on the antique model. The last straw hats have an oblong crown, terminating nearly in a points, which is trimmed with several bands of black velvet, in imitation of the fillets of the antique head-dress. The common hats, with buckles, have black velvet also in their composition. At first only three buckles were worn, all placed in the same direction; but now we see five, six, seven, all in different directions. --The fashion of yellow straw hats, of an oval form, one-half open, has been resumed. Of this species, the bonnet à double foncé is a yellow chip on an oblong crown, with a half square of black crape plaited, spread before, and brought narrow behind, a hood of same crape put on the back of the bonnet, terminating in narrow ends, tied under the chin. White feathers are sometimes worn with this bonnet, when made as above. White rose and sky-blue crape are also often used in forming it, as well as black. The edge of the bonnet is generally trimmed with ribbon, fluted. There are very few head-dresses of natural hair. The hair is divided on the forehead, then a demi-wig is put on with a quantity of antique oil. None but élégantes of the second order wear entire wigs; the lower classes have their têtes. The morning wigs, called parasseuses, are still white. For the other parts of the day, dark chestnut and black are the fashionable colours. The ribbons are still plain, the colour amaranthus, lilac, or jonquil. The handkerchiefs, and sometimes the apron, is trimmed with a coloured ribbon. The veils, which have superseded the handkerchiefs in the formation of the antique head-dresses, are deeply plaited behind.
The head-dresses à la paysanne are still in fashion at Paris. They are trimmed with white ribbons. The capotes are worn with coloured drapery and ribbons, according to the newest taste; the crown is black, and the drapery jonquil. The reign of amaranthus has not yet entirely passed away. --Trimming in lozenges and buckles is still in use. The feathers, called pleureuses, now display a mixture of colours. A sort of oak leaves of dyed feathers has been invented for trimming the bottom of the robe. The newest ribbons are on a white ground, and are fluted at intervals; they are called rubans jalousies--jealousy ribbons.
All these things are however in a state of perpetual fluctuation and change; for a fine woman in a fashion three months old would appear as ridiculous at Paris as a young beau in the dress of his great grandfather. It is a just observation, that the handsomer the fashion the sooner it disappears. The reason is obvious: its beuaty soon recommends it to public favour, and consequently it almost instantly ceases to be a mode of attracting particular notice. As, then, this is nearly the sole object of the toilet, our belles are obliged to invent some other, that may prove a mark of distinction. That, too, becomes common in its turn; and hence the head of a fine woman is a never-failing subject of expense to her husband.
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