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The Lady's Magazine, or Entertaining Companion for theFair Sex, Appropriated solely to their Use and Amusement,1805
Volume XXXVI for the Year 1805London: G. and J. Robinson, No. 25, Pater-noster-Row.
(With an Engraving elegantly coloured.)
VELVET has not been for a long time so much in vogue for the dress of the head. In full dress, a toque of black velvet, or deep blue, cherry-colour, or Turkish red, is worn, with an aigrette of diamonds, or an esprit. There are at least twenty sorts of velvet hats, all different. Those of an entirely round form, afterwards flattened and turned up before, are the most common. Sometimes the velvet is intersected or striped with yellow or white satin. Some hats are made of satin, with spots, or small stripes, of velvet: there are others of plain satin of the vigogne, cherry, or deep blue, colour: the feathers are still so placed that the points fall over the forehead. The cloth hats are lined with white satin: they are usually made à l'Espagnole, that is, with a large and flat crown and a small rim, or in the manner of a hunting cap. The fashion of small caps, with puckered trimmings under a hat still continues. These trimmings are likewise worn with fichus of Turkish muslin, of which some make a turban.
The new ribands are epinglés, or made resembling velvet; others with a plain ground have a passe-poil, or chain-lace of velvet.
In full dress, some ladies of fashion wear a mameluke of fine taffety, with a large round collar without trimming. Light grey and pearl grey silk robes are much in fashion.
The number of doulettes does not increase. According to the newest fashion, the cloth capotes or great-coats should have mother-of-pearl buttons; there ought to be ten on each side. These great coats are usually made of white kerseymire, of very deep chamois, or grey-peach coloured kerseymire; and have two velvet collars. The amazon dresses, which were all blue or brown, are now made of cloth or kerseymire, of the coulour of these great coats, with mother-of-pearl buttons.
The fashionable dresses represented in the plate are:--1. Hat of blue taffety, ornamented with flowers, and fastened on the top of the head by a riband. Short robe of white muslin, with a torsade at bottom. White embroidered shawl: pearl necklace: yellow gloves: yellow shoes.
2. Head dress in hair with a band. White robe, with a gold embroidery at bottom; short sleeves, spotted with gold: lapis lazuli necklace: gold ear-rings.
STRAW, Eygptian brown, and puce velvet, bonnets are still worn in the morning; together with the Spanish beaver hat, the colour Egyptian brown. In the evening, the plain Grecian head-dress or Eygptienne. Purple and green bunches of grapes are worn for assemblies, in the form of wreaths and scarlet flowers. Turbans are much worn of an evening. At the last Opera few diamonds were sported; in fact, dress seems exploded, until the fashionable season commences, which will be immediately after the birth-day.--Purple and green grapes are still worn as wreaths at balls and assemblies. Scarlet flowers are likewise worn.
An entirely new article has been introduced by our most fashionable ladies, in shawls made from the fur of the seal of the South-seas: they are ornamented with gold cord, India or Grecian borders and tassels, and have a very elegant and novel effect, as well as defending the fair wearer from the cold, being warmer, softer, and equally light as the Indian shawl.--Pelisses, and dresses made of the Georgian cloth, in its natural colour, which is very beautiful, will also be much worn in the first circles.--India shawls (put on as worn on the continent) are becoming more the rage than ever: a successful imitation of them has recently been made in this country, and will, we have no doubt, receive every encouragement from the ladies of the British isles.
Evening dress of a fine cambric, striped with lace; long sleeves made quite plain; the dress made full over the bosom, and confined in front with a small medallion or brooch.--A small cap, trimmed with velvet, and a lace veil thrown carelessly over it. --A full dress of fine white muslin, made open from the sides, and trimmed with lace: short sleeves, made of alernate stripes of lace and muslin; the bosom formed by a divided handkerchief, which is fastened to the side of the dress, and crossed over the bosom. A petticoat the same as the dress, trimmed round the bottom with lace. The head dressed with a veil, and a bandeau of diamonds or other ornaments in front.
A morning cap of white lace over coloured silk, with a full lace border. A deep frill of white lace round the neck.--A hat of amaranth velvet, covered with blonde lace, and trimmed with black velvet. A feather to match the hat.--A handkerchief-cap of white crape, finished with a bow on the left side.--Peruvian hats of coloured velvet, ornamented with velvet wreaths.--Turban of ruby-coloured crape.
General Observations.--The prevailing colours are green, yellow, and puce. Spanish hats of coloured velvet, with feathers to match, are generally worn. Black velvet pelisses, trimmed all round with lace, are most prevalent.
LADIES' DRESSES on her MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY.
The Queen--AN elegant white satin petticoat, with a net work embroidered in purple, and a rich velvet border at the bottom of the petticoat, with white velvet, white chineal, and silk flowers, and small fancy tassels; the drapery on the right side of the purple velvet, embroidered in white, relieeved with large points wihich draw up the drapery; that on the left side embroidered in bunches of large leaves; and rich purple and white tassels, intermixed with acorns and embroidered bows, finished this dress, which had a most noble appearance. The mantle of purple and white fancy velvet, with an elegant velvet embroidered border to correspond with the dress.
Princess Castelcicala--An elegant dress of white crape, richly embroidered in gold; drapery of purple velvet and gold spangles; train of purple velvet, embroidered and trimmed with gold.
Duchess of Dorset--A superb dress, but did not appear, on account of a death in the family. [This strikes me as rather funny to assure us her dress is great even though it was not seen!]
Marchioness of Hertford--A white crape petticoat, embroidered in gold, with a superb Etruscan border; rich sashes of white satin and gold; body and train of puce velvet, richly embroidered; head-dress, a plume of ostrich feathers, and diamonds.
Marchioness of Stafford--A dress of green crape, richly embroidered with gold draperies of velvet, lopped with bullion rope and tassels; robe of green velvet, superbly embroidered with gold,and trimmed with point [lace]; head-dress, velvet and diamonds.
Countess of Aylesbury--Head-dress, a rich gold cap, with six fine white ostrich feathers tastefully disposed and diamonds, with beautiful point lace lappets.
Countess of Aylesford--Head-dress, a black velvet bandeau, with a beautiful gold net, elegantly spangled, and rich gold tassels, with a plume of fine white ostrich feathers.
Lady Price--A handsome white and gold petticoat, with a beautiful border of gold feathers, body and train of purple velvet embroidered in gold; head-dress purple velvet and gold, with a plume of ostrich feathers.
Lady Mary Taylor--A white crape petticoat, ornamented with a shower of gold spangles, a Grecian drapery drawn up with cord and tassels, body and train of white satin trimmed with gold fringe.
Baroness Walkin--A pearl colour satin petticoat, with a scarlet velvet drapery, elegantly arranged with beautiful point [lace]; a Turkish robe of scarlet velvet, trimmed with point to correspond with the petticoat.
The three Misses Courtney--White blond lace petticoats, with Turkish draperies in pink, covered with spangles, rich cord and tassels; trians, rich brown and silver tissue; head-dresses brown and silver turban, pink feathers, and a profusion of diamonds.
Miss Wynn--A crape dress trimmed, beads. [sic]
Mademoiselle de Woigroff--Petticoat of crape,w ith rich tripes of silver vine leaves, and clusters of silver grapes; the border most elegantly fancied with wreaths of silver grapes; a Parisian bordered drapery in the eastern style, fastened up in several places with amethysts,encircled with diamonds, silver cords and tassels; body and train of white and silver chambery; the petticoat and train trimmed with variegated green frivoloity, which had a most noble and unique appearance. This dress was by far the most distinguished, and too much cannot be said of its elegance and simplicity.
(With an Engraving elegantly coloured.)
[Text is on page 64.]
HEAD-dresses in hair and turbans are still in undiminished vogue for full dress. In undress, next to the hats of black velvet, or of the same colour with the great coat now generally worn, a capote of rose-coloured satin, trimmed with a wide tulle, is most fashionable. The velvet hats are usually ornamented with feathers and flowers, and some are lined with a different colour: Cassimere [also called kerseymere] hats, of the same colour with the great coats, are edged with black velvet.
The dress represented in the annexed plate is now much worn. --a great coat of blue cassimere with a black velvet collar, and a velvet edging of the same colour. (This great coat comes down to the shoes and is trimmed in the same manner at the bottom)--Colerette à la Medicis--Coral necklace and ear-rings--the head-dress of hair raised on the top of the head, and fastened with a gold comb.
The cloth great coats have always large collars with folds.The taffety douillettes, which are pretty numerous, have likewise large collars of black velvet: they are usually of a bright nut- brown. The number of shawls continually diminishes: Palantines, both white and striped, begin to make their appearance.
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